The Sunscreens Europeans Have That Americans Desperately Want
A wishlist of formulas stuck at the U.S. border.
Japan's PA system rates UVA from PA+ (PPD 2-4) up to PA++++ (PPD 16+).
In South Korea, sunscreens are 'functional cosmetics' that must pass MFDS evaluation before sale.
Frequently asked questions
What does PA++++ mean on a sunscreen?
PA is the 'Protection Grade of UVA,' a rating developed in Japan and used across Asia, based on the Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) test. It runs from PA+ (some UVA protection) to PA++++ (extremely high). It complements SPF, which reflects only UVB protection.
How many UV filters are approved in the US vs the EU?
By count, the EU permits roughly 34 UV filters versus about 16 in the US. The gap exists largely because the US regulates sunscreens as over-the-counter drugs requiring extensive data, while the EU treats them as cosmetics. Bemotrizinol's June 2026 FDA approval was the first US addition in decades.
Are Korean and Japanese sunscreens better?
Not automatically — but Japanese and Korean sunscreens can use modern UVA filters within competitive cosmetics markets, so many feel lighter and cover more of the UVA range. Protection still depends on applying enough and reapplying; an elegant formula used sparingly underperforms a basic one used well.
r/AsianBeauty: 'Why are Korean sunscreens so cosmetically elegant compared to US ones?'
Sources & citations
- 'Modernizing U.S. Sunscreen Regulations,' PMC12332967
- pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗